Enough is enough, we are out of here!

After our excursion up Reinebringen, we drove to Fredvang the next morning for an equally popular hike to a secluded beach that can only be reached on foot, Kvalvika.

The hike leads up and over a mountain and down the other side, from where you start seeing the beach far below. 
There were some really nice views along the way, but was blowing like hell and by the time we got to the beach, it had begun to drizzle as well. Nevertheless, the hike was worth it, if just to pick up some sand for an avid collector back home.







Norway´s Matterhorn

The small island of Henningsvaer is best known for its football pitch, which is situated in the most scenic location possible.

It is best viewed from a hill opposite the village, to be able to appreciate the surroundings. 
As you might have expected, the hills were shrouded in thick fog and there would have been no view whatsoever. 

Someone missed the point of having a boat...

You can imagine the wind they get here if this is how you secure your contaniner





This is the hill my human had meant to climb for the view

Do not touch these objects, it says. 9200 NOK, it says. Thats around 840€! For an object! 

                                                                          Does this really have to be pointed out?

We moved on to Laukvika, a small village by the sea. Here we spent the night, doing some laundry and general housekeeping in the afternoon.

And ultimately, after another look at the weather forecast, made up our minds to leave the Lofoten Islands behind in pursuit of brighter weather and warmer temperatures.

Which meant putting as many miles between us and the west coast of Norway as possible.

We crossed the border to Sweden in the early afternoon the next day, arriving in Kiruna.

Kiruna is a peculiar place.
The northernmost city in Sweden was built in 1890, to serve as a base for the workers who were employed here in the largest underground iron ore mine in the world.


As early as the late 17th Century, rumors about the presence of iron ore in the two hills Kiirunavaara and Luossavaraa. Initially, no mining was initiated because of the remote location and the harsh climate. Only when a railway line was built between Lulea and Narvik, did the mining start.

In 2004 it was discovered the underground mining operation was going to extend below the town; already some structural damage to homes and other buildings was visible.

After many years of back and forth, constructions for the new town started in 2007, only 3km away from the current settlement.
Kiruna church, a 113-year old building, was relocated in ONE PIECE in 2025!

And this is as close as you get. Half the town is a construction site.

So maybe it is no wonder that the place feels somewhat out of place. 
Walking through the old town feels a bit surreal, so many empty buildings, no one on the streets, like after a zombie apocalypse.

New town is more lively, sure, but has no vibe, no charm, no feeling whatsoever.
Maybe it is better in winter, when everything is covered in snow and people ride around on their snow mobiles.

The towns sightseeing and skiing hill


Either way, there was no reason for us to stay longer than necessary, since we hadn´t overtaken the bad weather yet!

And so, we entered the next country, Finland!

It is said to be the most boring of the Scandinavian countries - not my words, and we were keen to find out.

First stop, Rovaniemi, home to Santa Claus Village. Another place more scenic in winter, for sure, but we were here now, so we had a look.

Santa Claus was in residence, but if you expect a photo of him, think again. Taking a picture with the old man is free, of course, but if you then want the proof, it costs you close to 50€!





The arctic circle runs right through the village





On the way, we already met some of his working colleagues, reindeer. 
They just chill out by the side of the road, some so still you have to look twice to see whether they are even alive.

Rovaniemi is the second largest city in Northern Finland, after Oulu a bit further south, and together with Helsinki the most important tourist destination in the country in terms of foreign tourism.

Lucky for us, we have a couple of Fins on speed dial and they came up with some neat suggestions for things to do in and around the city.

And so we were headed for the Arctic circle hiking area, a few kilometers outside the city, where my human went for a nice hike through a large moor area.
The best thing about this - the sun was shining and the wind was blowing, so it was warm but there were no mosquitoes, the best of two worlds!





A visit at the Arktikum, an arctic science center and museum, was on the list and we headed there next.
With the good weather outside, it was very quiet and empty inside, so the captivating exhibitions could be enjoyed and studied in peace.




100 Finnish words for snow!

The actual tusk of an actual wooly mammoth, weighing in at 45kg!


Did you know that reindeer change the color of their eyes between winter and summer?
Golden in summer and deep blue and a lot more light sensitiv in winter!

Traditional Sami clothing


A stroll through the city didn´t bring anything more exciting than a big ice cream cone, but the area down by the river is rather scenic and inviting.



A public carpet washing area down by the river; never have we seen anything like it!

One of the insider tips told us about a sauna right by the river, which you could jump into to cool down after the sweating.
Always keen for 90 degrees heat, we went to check it out.

For the incredibly low price of 5€, you can enjoy this wood fired sauna for as long as you like.
One of the employees told us that the prices are so low in summer to make it easily affordable for all the locals, in winter there are different price tags! 



The hut on the right houses the sauna; no photos from inside, for obvious reasons.

Koli is probably the most famous national park in Finland.
It is said to be the place to take in the "iconic view" of the country.
No surprise, we went there next.

But not before some early morning yoga and breakfast on the jetty


Driving through Finland, sort of from north-west to south-east, you cross a lot of terrain, predominantly covered in forest, over 75% to be exact.
Another 10% is water, that´s why they call it "Land of the Thousand Lakes". Well, it´s more like 187.000 lakes!
Maybe that is what people mean, when they say Finland is boring...



But, on this drive we finally saw some moose! 
A mum with her two calves crossed the road some 100 meters in front of us!

Very close to the visitor center of the Koli National Park are a couple of lookouts where people flock to to get the iconic view.
Past those, you hardly meet anyone anymore and you have the forest pretty much to yourself, kilometer after kilometer.

For those who don´t want to walk

She didn´t are to take any mushrooms, but the blueberries were a safe bet!

After a long day of hiking, we spent the night at a campground that features a sauna which runs for a couple of hours every evening.
It is also situated right next to a lake, offering a great cool down opportunity after the heat and a beautiful backdrop!

















 

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