Hiking on the Lycian way

The oldest long distance hiking trail in the country is the Lycian Way, established in 1999.
Depending on the exact route you take, it is a roughly 760km long, 35-stage trail, running from Fethiye to Antalya, always close to the coast.

Now, obviously my human wasn`t about to leave me alone for over a month to hike the whole trail, but she had planned to do a few sections here and there and after another intensely rainy night, she set off in the morning at the official starting point of the trail.

On this 22km section you pass high above the fabled Butterfly Valley. 350m high cliffs make it a rather difficult place to visit. It can only be reached by boat or on foot, down a steep and treacherous path.

It is called Butterfly Valley for a reason! 80 different kinds can be found in this small area, including the Russian Bear, a protected species and butterfly of the year 2025.

When she arrived at the end of the section, she had just reached a bus stop, when a dolmus came around the corner and took her back.
A dolmus is a small bus, seating around 15 people plus a few standing. They constitute a large part of the public transport system in the country, especially in the more rural areas, and run a pretty frequent, very affordable service.

A beautiful natural harbor

High end, super private accommodation

Butterfly Valley beach

We then moved on to the Saklikent Canyon, a 10km long gorge which you can hike through, at least part way, constantly crossing the river rushing through it or wading in the water itself.

Unfortunately, due to the heavy rainfalls of the last few days, only the first 300 meters were accessible that day.

No humans allowed beyond this point, only dogs

Madam Cash and her three cute puppies; every campground needs dogs!

Feeding time

Cafes and restaurants beautifully set up around the canyon

A shorter hike here meant more time at Patara Beach, an 18km long, up to 400m wide white sand beach, located in a protected area. Turtles use this beach for nesting and it is forbidden to enter parts of it during night time.

The sand has formed huge dunes, up to 100m high and standing in between those, you could think you are in a desert. If you ignore the noises of the ocean, that is.
It is a favorite spot for sunset and if you want to see some really ridiculous Instagram-behavior, this is your spot!

Another section of the Lycian Way

A Roman aqueduct

Close up

Thousands of greenhouses

With a half-day stop at Kaputas Beach, we made our way to Kas, a small town in the province of Antalya.
Fishing, yachting, tourism in general and diving in particular employ a lot of the 63.000 residents here.

One of many Instagram shootings going on at Kaputas Beach

Besides the town being very pretty with its cute harbor and the steep cobbled streets, my human had planned to do some diving and kayaking here, since, so they say, some of the best diving in the Mediterranean is to be found here.

Central square in Kas

Slippery street; it`s really living up to its name!

The Greek island of Kastellorizo, only 6km away

So, over the next couple of days, she went on a couple of trips with Dragoman, one of many outfits in town and the one that had answered her enquiries most satisfyingly.

The enjoyable kayaking trip took her and a motley crew of Australians, Irish, Americans and Turkish to the Island of Kekova.

On its northern side you can see, above and under water, remnants of the antique city of Dolichiste, which was built on the island in the last centuries BC by the Lycians, the first known society to introduce democracy.

A series of earthquakes hit the region in the 2nd Century AD and toppled a lot of the buildings, which were precariously perched on the cliffs, into the water.

The small town of Demre, the lunch stop

Lycian tombs

View from above Demre to Kekova Island

The following day she went out on the Dragoman II for a couple of dives.

Since this is the Mediterranean, she didn`t expect all that much and that is exactly what she got, not all that much.

Quite a few lion fish, a couple of small groupers, a few nudibranches, rocks, sea grass, ...

A plunge from a little plateau in 5m depth between two rock walls opening to a narrow canyon was the highlight.

But she was happy just to be under water and to test her new dive computer, which worked just fine.

With a bottom temperature of only 20 degrees, she was quite alright with the dives lasting just 40 minutes.

When asked if she would like to return the next day for more diving, she respectfully declined.

Leaving the harbor

A last view of Kas, a pretty little town

After the water based activities of the last two days, it was time for another exploration on land, hiking on the Lycian Way.

The section between Kalaöz and Adrasan, a 23km hike, is meant to be the prettiest of the whole route.

Wheter one has to do it on a 35 degree day is another question.

But we were here now and it was now or never, so off she went.

And it has to be said, it was a very enjoyable hike. After the first 5km of dirt road were behind her, that is.

The path hugs the coast all the way and offers some stunning views into the azure ocean.

Once she arrived in Adrasan, she asked where she could find a dolmus stop to take her back. Unlike last time, she wasn`t so lucky. Apparently there is no service between the tow towns.
Not overly excited about another 16km on the road to get back, she stuck out her thumb and thanks to two nice people, she was back by my side in no time at all.

One last stop on the way to Antalya led us to Cirali to see the Chiamera "eternal flames". They were first described by Ctesias who lived in the 5th Century BC!

Methane and other gases, such as hydrogen, emerge from the rock and burn.

Quite and interesting phenomenon.

Today, unlike in the 5th Century BC, I would guess, people come here to roast corn cobs and marshmallows.